Know Your Planet: the Guyana Edition

Just push play! Wait, no, that's a flag, sorry.

Today on Know Your Planet, we cover Guyana. Which might seem kind of random, but I can assure you it's totally germane. You see, most people assume I'm from India. Fun fact #1: I'm not. Sort of. I mean, way back I am, but India is so far removed from my culture that I don't really consider myself Indian at all. But even after I tell people I'm not from India... most people forget because their brains have already anchored onto the idea that I'm from India. So let's get this all sorted out, shall we? I was born in the good old United States of America. My parents are from Guyana and their (maybe great?) grandparents are from India.

Source: Wikipedia. And reality.

Fun fact #2: Guyana is not the same country as Ghana. Ghana is in Africa. Guyana is in South America. And yes, while my skin may be darker than yours, it's not a license to assume I'm from Africa when I say "actually my family is from Guyana."


Fun Fact #3: Guyana is the only English-speaking country in South America. So yes, again while I might look Indian, my family hasn't spoken any languages other than English for generations. So, no I don't speak Hindi. Homeless guy on the street, unless we're in a yoga class together, it's offensive when you greet me with "namaste." And yes, I will still give you food, but I won't give you money.

Sugar cane: the real reason why I'm so sweet

So why are there so many Black and Indian people in Guyana? Fun fact #4: As is the case while most global ethnographic anomalies, the answer is... the British! British Guiana as it was known, has and still has tons of fields where lots of fieldy thing happen. Crops and such, you know what I'm talking about. For a while the British used slaves from Africa to work the fields. When slavery was abolished in British Guiana in the early 1800s, the British shopped around the rest of the world to full their labor needs, like a kid in a candy store searching for that perfect treat to satisfy his sweet tooth. Except this candy store is the world. And that perfect treat is actually the British tricking poor, uneducated people of the world into voluntarily uprooting themselves and moving halfway across the world to work the fields under the false pretense that those workers might someday have a better life. The British finally settled on Indians as their best bet, which brings us to today, where Guyana has a population comprised of 45% Indian, 30% African, 10% Native Amerind, and 15% other people (which mostly means some mix of those first three buckets).

Fun fact #5: Record keeping in the very third-world country that is Guyana leaves a little to be desired. Which means aside from the little that I've already stated, we don't really know much more about our family history. We think either my grandparents or great grandparents came to Guyana from India. And we have no idea where in India we're from.

Maybe a history can help answer this geographic conundrum! As it turns out, nope, because the British imported people (is that an offensive way to say that? even if so, I stand by it's historical accuracy) from both the north and south of India. So... history, you are yet again, totally unhelpful.

http://xkcd.com/634/

How about biology? The details of my family origin by definition must be encoded in my DNA but for the time being, it will remain trapped until I can figure out how to get it out of there. However, phenotype to the rescue! (For your non-biologists out there, phenotype refers to the physical manifestation of certain features encoded in your DNA, i.e. that crazy 2nd toe you have that's longer than your big toe, or that head fully of fiery red hair.) Fun fact #5: Many people tell me dad that he looks like he's from Kerala, a coastal state in the south of India. And that's good enough for me to at least make it a stop on my journey. I mean, I figure while I'm out here, I might as well check it out, right?

Goa: My Vacation From My Vacation Has Arrived!

Cool map, bro

I made it to the airport surprisingly hassle-free. I'm on my way to Goa, which is the premier vacation destination for Indians in India. I assume for other foreigners in India too, but who knows, really? As per usual in Asia, my bag was thoroughly searched. Multiple times on my way to the gate. While going through security, I met an awesome Israeli couple who was traveling with their one-year old baby and also headed to Goa on the same itinerary. Their baby was adorable, liked being read to, and had to be forced to eat. I don't have much experience with one-year-olds, but I assume this is pretty standard fare.

I had an excruciatingly long six-hour morning layover at the airport in New Delhi. All I could think the whole time was "I'm back in Delhi. For the third time. How did this happen?" But at least I had company. This couple was super friendly. They attempted to teach me some Hindi, Malayali (Malayalam is a language spoken in southern India), and Hebrew words. Most of which I immediately forgot. I do remember one though: "mirchi," which means "spicy" in... one of the Indian languages. This was also one of the few times I ever let myself fall asleep at the airport. The layover was long enough to actually get some sleep, plus I felt pretty comfortable with the idea that a) they weren't going to rob me and/or let me get robbed and b) they weren't going to let me miss my flight. It was a much needed nap. And indeed, we all made it on the flight with all of our belongings in tow.

I got yelled at by a security guard for taking this photo

One of the nice things about flying on airlines in Asia is that unlike most American airlines, they still feed you. A lot. You're entitled to your own opinion, but I don't think airline food is as bad as people make it out to be. A lot of effort goes into making those things delicious. It's not the food's fault that it's noisy, and you're cramped, and have to cut your chicken with a plastic knife that barely spreads butter so you can't truly enjoy the delectability of the food.

So my plane landed two hours early. Also not everyone was exiting the aircraft. (...airplane? Who calls it an aircraft, honestly?) I've had planes land early but this... was ridiculous. Something was up. I heard "Mumbai" thrown around occasionally and my first thought was "oh no, I got on the wrong plane" but as it turns out, we just made a stopover in Mumbai on our way. This is what happens when you don't speak the language and are half-asleep throughout the flight.

Another couple hours later, we made it to Goa. I parted ways with my new friends and found myself a cab to my hostel. Finally, the vacation from my vacation is here!

Go on to Goa Part 2: Do Not Pass Goa, Do Not Collect Good Times